🔧 Gap Filling & Seam Removal

Perfect for closing joints between model parts, especially those tricky seams on:

• Multi-part miniature assemblies
• Vehicle hull sections
• Building terrain pieces
• Resin kit connections

The liquid consistency flows into the smallest gaps, eliminating visible seam lines completely.

🎨 Surface Correction

Fix casting flaws and prepare surfaces for painting:

• Fill mold lines and casting bubbles
• Smooth rough resin surfaces
• Repair chipped or damaged details
• Create perfectly flat bases

After sanding, you'll have a glass-smooth surface ready for primer.

✏️ Detail Sculpting

Add small details and textures:

• Fabric folds on clothing
• Battle damage and weathering
• Small armor rivets
• Facial feature adjustments

Work it while wet or carve details after it hardens—your choice.

🏗️ Terrain Building

Essential for scenery and diorama work:

• Blend foam terrain sections
• Fill cracks in plaster castings
• Create smooth stone surfaces
• Repair damaged scenery pieces

Water-based formula makes it ideal for porous materials like foam and wood.

1. Prepare the Surface

Clean the area with soap and water or isopropyl alcohol. Remove any grease, dust, or mold release agents. Dry completely before applying.

2. Apply the Putty

Squeeze directly from the tube into gaps, seams, or defects. For small areas, use the tip precision. For larger areas, apply a thin layer with a wet sculpting tool or old brush.

3. Shape While Wet (Optional)

Use a damp tool, toothpick, or silicone shaper to smooth and shape. Keep tools wet—dip in water frequently. This is your chance to add textures or blend edges seamlessly.

4. Let It Cure

Thin applications: 30-60 minutes. Thicker fills: 2-4 hours. For best results, leave overnight before heavy sanding.

5. Sand & Finish

Start with 400-grit sandpaper for rough shaping, then move to 600-800 grit for smooth finish. The putty sands easily without clogging paper. Wipe dust off before priming.

6. Prime & Paint

Apply your standard primer. The putty accepts paint identically to plastic or resin—you won't see any difference in texture or coverage.

Can I use this on resin, metal, and plastic?

Absolutely. Green Putty adheres excellently to all standard modeling materials including plastic (styrene, ABS), resin (polyurethane, epoxy), white metal, pewter, and even wood or foam for terrain.

Will this shrink as it dries?

No. This is one of the major advantages of Green Putty over cheaper alternatives. It maintains its volume and shape throughout the curing process, which means gaps stay filled and surfaces stay flat.

How is this different from epoxy putty (green stuff)?

Epoxy putties are two-part compounds that remain workable for hours and cure into a rubbery, flexible finish—great for sculpting large details. Green Putty is single-component acrylic that dries faster and harder, making it better for gap filling, smoothing, and fine detail work that needs to be sanded.

Can I mix pigments or paint into it?

You can add small amounts of acrylic paint or pigment for tinting, but this may affect drying time and hardness. For most applications, it's better to use it pure and paint over it after curing.

What if the tip gets clogged?

If putty begins to dry in the nozzle, clear it with a pin or toothpick. Store the tube cap-down to prevent air pockets. If fully clogged, trim the tip with a hobby knife to reopen it.

Can I use this for large sculpting projects?

It's better suited for small to medium detail work and corrections rather than building up large volumes. For extensive sculpting, consider combining it with epoxy putty for bulk, then using Green Putty for final smoothing and details.

Does it work with airbrush primer?

Yes, perfectly. Once cured and sanded, Green Putty accepts brush-on, spray-can, or airbrush primers without any special preparation. It behaves exactly like the base material.

🔹 For Perfect Seam Lines

Apply a thin bead along the seam, then immediately smooth with a damp cotton swab or your finger. The moisture helps blend the edges. Work in sections on large models to maintain control before it starts setting.

🔹 Building Up Layers

For gaps deeper than 2mm, apply the first layer, let it cure completely, then add a second layer. This prevents surface tension cracks and speeds overall drying. Each layer should be 1-1.5mm maximum thickness.

🔹 Creating Smooth Curves

Use a damp silicone sculpting tool or rubber-tipped clay shaper to blend putty into rounded surfaces. The silicone doesn't stick to the wet putty, giving you complete control over contours.

🔹 Preventing Tool Sticking

Keep a small cup of water nearby. Dip your sculpting tools every few seconds. This thin water layer acts as a release agent and helps achieve ultra-smooth finishes.

🔹 Speed Up Drying

Place models under a desk lamp (not too close—heat can cause warping on plastic). Gentle warmth and air circulation can reduce drying time by 30-40%. A fan on low also works.

🔹 Combining with Other Putties

Green Putty pairs excellently with epoxy putty (Green Stuff, Milliput). Use epoxy for bulk sculpting, then apply a thin layer of Green Putty as a final smoothing coat. Sand the Green Putty for a perfect finish—much easier than sanding epoxy alone.