🏺 Miniature & Model Duplication

Create perfect molds of your sculpted miniatures, terrain pieces, or conversion bits:

• Press molds for small parts and details
• Single-piece molds for terrain rocks and bases
• Temporary production molds for resin casting
• Backup copies of rare or custom miniatures

Fast cure time means you can make multiple molds in one sitting.

💍 Jewelry Making

Perfect for small-scale jewelry and accessory production:

• Wax model duplication
• Resin jewelry casting molds
• Metal clay texture stamps
• Prototype testing before final production

Heat resistance allows use with low-temperature metals and polymer clays.

🎨 Texture & Detail Stamps

Capture surface textures for repeated application:

• Stone and brick patterns for terrain
• Fabric fold textures
• Natural wood grain stamps
• Custom detail presses for sculpting

Flexible silicone releases cleanly from putty and clay without sticking.

🦷 Medical & Orthopedic Uses

Safe for skin contact and precise impression work:

• Dental impression molds
• Custom orthopedic inserts
• Prosthetic component molding
• Rehabilitation device prototypes

Platinum cure means no toxic byproducts or sulfur inhibition.

🏗️ Prototype Development

Rapid testing and iteration for product design:

• Small mechanical part molds
• Button and control replicas
• Gasket and seal prototypes
• Design verification models

10-minute cure allows multiple design iterations in a single day.

🔥 High-Temperature Casting

Withstands heat for specialized applications:

• Low-temp metal casting (tin, pewter)
• Polymer clay baking molds
• Wax burnout preparation
• Vacuum forming patterns

150°C resistance opens doors to techniques impossible with standard silicones.

⚠️ Before You Start: Safety First

Put on vinyl or nitrile gloves. DO NOT use latex gloves—latex inhibits the curing reaction and your silicone won't harden properly. Work in a well-ventilated area.

1. Prepare Your Master Model

Clean your original piece thoroughly—remove dust, oils, and fingerprints. For porous materials (unprimed resin, plaster, wood), seal with a thin coat of primer or clear spray. Let dry completely. Position the model on a flat surface or in a container if making a full encapsulation mold.

2. Measure Equal Parts A & B

Cut or weigh equal amounts of Part A (blue) and Part B (also blue). The 1:1 ratio is critical—use a scale for best results. For small jobs, 20-30g total (10-15g each part) is usually sufficient. For larger molds, use up to 50g total per batch.

3. Mix Thoroughly

Knead both parts together with your gloved hands for 60-90 seconds. Mix until you achieve a uniform deep blue color with no streaks or marbling. Proper mixing is essential for complete curing. You have 2.5 minutes working time, so mix efficiently but thoroughly.

4. Apply to Model

Press the mixed silicone firmly onto your master. For press molds, create a 5-8mm thick layer over the detail side. Push silicone into undercuts and fine details—work out any air bubbles by pressing and smoothing. For block molds, pack silicone around the entire model, ensuring no air pockets remain.

5. Shape the Mold

Smooth the outer surface with wet fingers or tools. Add registration keys (alignment bumps) for two-part molds if needed. Work quickly—you have about 1 minute left before it starts setting. Create a flat back surface for press molds or build walls for containment molds.

6. Cure Time

Set aside for 10 minutes at room temperature (23°C). Don't disturb during curing. In cooler environments (below 18°C), allow 12-15 minutes. You'll know it's ready when the silicone feels firm and bounces back when pressed.

7. Demold & Use

Carefully peel the cured silicone away from your master. The flexibility allows you to remove even complex shapes without damage. Your mold is now ready for casting with resin, plaster, clay, or other materials. No post-cure needed—use immediately.

✅ Excellent

• Resins: Epoxy, polyurethane, polyester
• Plaster: All types including dental plaster
• Wax: Casting wax, microcrystalline wax
• Polymer clay: Sculpey, Fimo (bake in mold up to 130°C)
• Concrete: Fine casting concrete

⚠️ Good (with release agent)

• Epoxy putty: Green Stuff, Milliput
• Modeling clay: Oil-based clay
• Soap: Melt & pour soap bases
• Silicone: Can cast silicone-in-silicone with proper release

❌ Not Recommended

• Food products: Not food-safe certified
• Hot metals: Above 150°C (use RTV for metal casting)
• Sulfur-containing materials: May inhibit cure in some cases

Why must I avoid latex gloves?

Latex contains sulfur compounds that poison platinum-cure silicone catalysts, preventing proper curing. The silicone will remain sticky or partially cured if exposed to latex. Always use vinyl or nitrile gloves. Even trace amounts of latex can cause problems, so never let latex touch your workspace or master model either.

How many casts can I get from one mold?

With proper care, a Blue Silicone Putty mold can produce 50-100+ casts depending on the casting material and detail complexity. Resin casting is less abrasive than plaster. The 6 N/mm tear resistance means the mold can handle repeated flexing without tearing at detail edges.

What if my silicone doesn't cure properly?

Common causes: (1) Improper mixing—ensure you mix thoroughly until completely uniform. (2) Incorrect ratio—always use equal parts A and B by weight. (3) Latex contamination—check your gloves and work surface. (4) Cold temperature—work above 18°C for best results. (5) Expired material—check the date on your kit.

Can I make two-part molds?

Yes. Create the first half, let it cure for 10 minutes, then apply petroleum jelly or silicone release spray to the exposed surface. Mix a fresh batch and apply the second half. The two parts will separate cleanly while still capturing the full model.

Do I need mold release?

For most materials, no release is needed when casting. However, for the master model when making the mold, sealed or non-porous surfaces usually release fine. Porous materials (raw resin, wood, plaster) should be sealed first to prevent the silicone from bonding or soaking in.

How detailed are the reproductions?

Extremely detailed. Platinum silicone captures surface textures down to the microscopic level—fingerprints, fabric weaves, even minor scratches on your master will appear in casts. This is why it's critical to prepare and clean your master thoroughly before molding.

What's the difference between this and tin-cure silicone?

Platinum-cure (like Blue Silicone Putty) is more expensive but offers superior tear strength, longer mold life, better heat resistance, and produces no byproducts during curing. Tin-cure is cheaper but has noticeable shrinkage, produces acidic byproducts, and degrades faster over time. Platinum is the professional choice.

Can I speed up or slow down the cure time?

Higher temperatures accelerate curing (place near a warm lamp), while cooler temperatures slow it slightly. However, the working time is inherently short with this formula—it's designed for rapid production. If you need more working time, consider a different silicone formulation with a longer pot life.

🔹 Avoiding Air Bubbles

Work the silicone from one side to the other across your model, pushing it down and forward to force air out ahead of the silicone. For complex models, apply a thin "detail coat" first by pressing small bits into recesses, then build up the bulk layer. Some moldmakers tap the work surface gently to help bubbles rise.

🔹 Making Press Molds vs Block Molds

Press molds: Apply a 5-8mm thick layer over one side of your model. These work best for flat-backed pieces or relief details. Block molds: Completely encase the model in silicone. Use for 3D objects that need full reproduction. For objects with severe undercuts, you'll need to make a two-part mold with a parting line.

🔹 Extending Mold Life

After each use, wash molds with warm soapy water and dry completely before storage. Store flat or supported—don't let molds deform under their own weight. Keep away from direct sunlight and heat sources. Dust molds lightly with talcum powder if they become tacky over time.

🔹 Color Coding Your Molds

The blue color is perfect for workshop organization. Consider labeling each mold with a permanent marker on the back indicating what it's for and the creation date. This helps track mold age and usage.

🔹 Repairing Damaged Molds

If a mold tears or develops damage, you can patch it with fresh Blue Silicone Putty. Clean and dry the damaged area, mix a small batch, and press it into the tear. Smooth it flush with the surrounding surface. Let cure and continue using the mold.

🔹 Batch Production Strategy

With 10-minute cure time, you can create an assembly line: make mold #1, start casting in mold #1 after 10 minutes, make mold #2 while mold #1's cast cures, etc. This workflow maximizes productivity when you need multiple molds or rapid production.

🔴 Problem: Silicone won't cure or stays sticky

Solutions:

• Check for latex contamination (gloves, mold surface, master)
• Verify you used equal parts A and B
• Ensure thorough mixing with no streaks remaining
• Work in warmer environment (above 18°C)
• Check expiration date on packaging

🔴 Problem: Air bubbles trapped in detail areas

Solutions:

• Apply thin detail coat first, working silicone into recesses
• Use a pushing motion, not patting or pressing straight down
• Work from one edge across to force air out ahead
• Gently tap work surface during curing to bring bubbles up

🔴 Problem: Silicone tears when demolding

Solutions:

• Make mold walls thicker (minimum 5mm, ideally 8-10mm)
• Add more silicone around thin or delicate sections
• Peel slowly and evenly when demolding
• Consider making a two-part mold for severe undercuts

🔴 Problem: Detail loss or soft detail reproduction

Solutions:

• Clean master model more thoroughly before molding
• Mix components more completely (no marbling or streaks)
• Press firmly into details during application
• Allow full 10 minutes cure before demolding